Advancing Military Footwear: An Innovative Breakthrough in Waterproof Breathable Bootie Technology

Precision Engineering for Enhanced Military and Defense Performance


Military personnel operate in diverse and challenging environments, requiring footwear that provides optimal protection, durability, and comfort. One critical component of this footwear is the waterproof breathable bootie, a specialized component inserted into military boots or footwear to enhance their waterproof and breathable properties. These booties provide protection against moisture while allowing moisture vapor (sweat) to escape, keeping the feet dry and comfortable in various environmental conditions, and must meet military performance specifications. This case study reviews Shawmut’s solution to a persistent industry challenge, highlighting its innovative approach, impressive results, and the broader impact on military footwear applications.

The Challenge

The challenge was to develop a lamination process for a three-layered composite fabric component comprising a nylon herringbone footwear liner, a barrier membrane, and tricot. This composite needed to meet rigorous military performance specifications, including criteria such as weight, abrasion resistance, moisture vapor transmission (MVT), hydrostatic head (waterproofing), resistance to DEET and hydrocarbons (oils), as well as wash durability. Numerous competitors had attempted this project without success, unable to satisfy the stringent requirements set forth by military standards.

Innovative Approach

Shawmut’s success in overcoming the challenge stemmed from a meticulous and innovative approach. The team embarked on a comprehensive analysis to identify materials that could collectively meet the demanding specifications. They identified an abrasion-resistant foot contact surface, a waterproof breathable ePTFE (expanded polytetrafluoroethylene) membrane, and a lightweight monofilament tricot.

The breakthrough, however, lay in the intricate lamination process. Shawmut’s approach involved a multi-step, highly controlled adhesive application and lamination process. To achieve optimal results, the team employed both hydrophilic and high modulus polyurethane adhesives. These adhesives were applied in specific, discreet, and discontinuous patterns, addressing the unique requirements for breathability and abrasion resistance. This level of precision set Shawmut apart, as competitors had failed to match these crucial performance parameters.

The integration of the abrasion-resistant foot contact surface ensured the longevity of the bootie, catering to the rigorous conditions military personnel often face. The ePTFE membrane played a pivotal role in making the bootie waterproof yet breathable, allowing moisture vapor to escape while preventing external elements from penetrating. Finally, the lightweight monofilament tricot contributed to the overall weight specifications, ensuring the footwear met the military’s weight criteria.

Results and Impact

Shawmut’s innovative solution yielded remarkable results that exceeded industry expectations. The developed waterproof breathable bootie not only met but surpassed the military performance specifications. It demonstrated exceptional abrasion resistance, facilitated optimal moisture vapor transmission, and achieved an impressive hydrostatic head for superior waterproofing.

Moreover, the bootie exhibited resistance to DEET and hydrocarbons, critical for military operations in diverse terrains and conditions. The wash durability, often a challenge in maintaining performance over time, proved to be a strength of Shawmut’s solution. The military now had access to a footwear component that not only met the demands of the job but also showcased a level of durability and reliability that had eluded previous attempts by competitors.

The impact of this breakthrough extended beyond the immediate success of the project. Shawmut’s waterproof breathable bootie became a benchmark in military footwear technology, influencing the design and performance standards for similar products across the industry. The company gained a reputation for pushing the boundaries of innovation and reliability in military gear, opening doors to new opportunities and collaborations.


Shawmut’s success in developing an advanced waterproof breathable bootie for military applications underscores the power of innovative thinking and precise engineering. By identifying the right materials and employing a complex lamination process, the company not only addressed the challenge at hand but also set a new standard in military footwear technology. This case study underscores the tangible benefits of careful analysis, inventive problem-solving, and a dedication to excellence, contributing to the continual improvement of defense industry capabilities and the safety of military personnel globally.

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Project Details


Waterproof breathable bootie for military footwear applications

Capabilities Applied/Processes:

  • Hot Melt Rotogravure, Multi-layer, and Multi-pass
  • Controlled Adhesive Application

Industry for Use:

Military and Defense

Materials Used:

  • ePTFE membrane
  • Lightweight tricot
  • Tricot
  • Nylon herringbone
  • Hydrophilic and high modulus polyurethane adhesives

Equipment Used:

Thermal Laminator

In Process Testing/Inspection Performed:

  • Weight
  • Abrasion Resistance
  • Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate (MVT)
  • Hydrostatic Head
  • Resistance to DEET and Hydrocarbons


58” – 60”, capable up to 78”


Continuous Roll-to-Roll

Standards Met:

Customer Requirements

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